Friday, 7 September 2012

This tutorial details how I created the chipped white armour of my Deathwing Terminators. Future installments will detail how I will paint the rest of the miniature (metallics, gun plating, basing etc). 

These models will be available for sale once painted. If you would like to purchase them before they go on general sale please e-mail me here.

Paints used in this tutorial

  • Reaper Master Series (RMS) Bloodless Skin
  • Reaper Master Series (RMS) Aged Bone
  • Vallejo Model Colour (VMC) Ivory
  • Vallejo Model Colour (VMC) Dark Blue Grey
  • Vallejo Model Colour (VMC) Black Grey
  • Vallejo Game Colour (VGC) Black Game Ink
  • Vallejo Air (VA) Rust (metallics) - not pictured
  • Pro Pigment Raw Sienna - Not pictured

Step one

  • Base coat miniature with grey primer
  • Airbrush model (20 - 30 psi) with VA Rust mixed with Pro Pigment Raw Sienna (90:10). We are looking for a nice even coating which may take two or three passes to ensure this. 
  • Spray miniature with two coats of Hair Spray

Step two

  • Airbrush model (20 - 30 psi) with RMS Aged Bone and VMC Dark Blue Grey (70:30). Ensure an even, consistent coat, covering all the white armour plates and recesses completely. 

Step three

  • Add a little more RMS aged bone to the previous mix. We want to add a little more warmth to the armour and start building a gradual change in the gradient from shadow to highlight. 
  • Aiming the airbrush at a 20 degree angle, spray the miniature with the new mix. You may not see much a difference in the tone now, but you will in later stages.   

Step four

  •  Empty the airbrush of the previous mix. Now mix RMS Aged Bone and RMS Bloodless Skin (60:40) and airbrush at a 45 degree angle. This will help build the impression of natural light hitting the model. Concentrate on airbrushing raised armour plates and area's where light would naturally fall. 

Step five
  • Add more RMS Bloodless Skin to previous mix and aim the airbrush at a higher angle from previous sprayings. 
  • Concentrate you highlights on the end of previously highlighted armour plates. Pay attention to the face, shoulder pads and top carapace. 

Step six

  • Add VMC Ivory to previous mixture until you are running pure VMC ivory through your airbrush. Concentrate on the very highlights points of your highlights. 

Step seven
  • This is where the fun begins. Using warm water and a suitable applicator (I used the edge of a broken knife for ultra fine detail and a cue tip cut in half) to 'scratch' battle damage into the armour. 
  • Unlike other chipping techniques where you are fooling the eye with dark and light colour, this technique actually chips the paint. It is a very realistic technique and quite easy to achieve with a little fore-thought. 

Optional Extra Step, Graphite lining. 
  • Using pencil lead, line hard lines of the miniature (in this case, I used a technical pencil). The graphite has a natural metallic sheen that helps armour plates stand apart, as well as adding an additional layer of texture to the weathering. 

And that's how you create a weathered Deathwing Terminator. In the next article I'll run through how to paint the metallic details of the miniatures as well as any other details I manage to compile. 

Thank you for reading.