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Horus Lupercal Warmaster
Horus Lupercal Master of the Imperium. To commission this piece please contact lillegendstudio@gmail.com for full details
Sigismund The Black Templar, Dorn's Herald, The Emperor's Champion
Lil'Legend Studio offers high quality paint jobs for your miniatures and armies.
Infamy Bust Uncle John
I wanted a darker vibe with this miniature so I used the notes written by Grant Morrison in the back of Arkham Asylum concerning the Mad Hatter. I painted the irises in different colours with a purple undertone to the flesh, as if the blood weren't quite a healthy red. The more I painted it the more it resembled Arsene Wenger! But with a parrot and a capuchin!
Roboute Guilliman
They shall be pure of heart and strong of body, untainted by doubt and unsullied by self-aggrandisement. They will be bright stars on the firmament of battle, Angels of Death whose shining wings bring swift annihilation to the enemies of Man. So it shall be for a thousand times for a thousand years, unto the very end of eternity and the extinction of mortal flesh.
Showing posts with label Ultramainres. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ultramainres. Show all posts
Wednesday, 9 May 2018
Tuesday, 3 November 2015
Tuesday, 20 October 2015
08:30
Unknown
Librarian Tigrius
This was a personal project to paint something I have loved since my childhood. I have a freehand banner not attached that I cannot seem to find since I moved house. Until found this will remain incomplete but I'm still proud to showcase it. I hope to have the classic Marneus Calgary painted sometime before I die to accompany his librarian into battle.
Paints used: Vallejo, Reaper Master Series, Games Workshop Washes, Com Art Medea Airbrush Airbrush: Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH Airbrush Paint Brushes: Rosemary & Co. Raphael 8040, Broken Toad Brushes, Windsor and Newton Series 7
Tuesday, 13 October 2015
01:11
Unknown
Roboute Guilliman
Paints used: Vallejo, Reaper Master Series, Games Workshop Washes, Com Art Medea Airbrush Airbrush: Iwata Hi-Line HP-CH Airbrush Paint Brushes: Rosemary & Co. Raphael 8040, Broken Toad Brushes, Windsor and Newton Series 7
Thursday, 7 June 2012
10:37
Unknown
Sculptor: Jes Godwin
Release Date: 1991 Games Day UK
Coolminiornot Link
This is the second miniature in my Citadel Legends series, the Venerable Space marine captain from gamesday 1991. This miniature is littered throughout the earlier White Dwarf's and appears as a firm favourite in many peoples favourite miniature lists.
Unfortunately, I cannot find who sculpted this piece, nor can I find any reference to where it was distributed. All I know is that it was released for Gamesday 1991 in the UK. The miniature is typical of the Space Marine captains that were sculpted at the time; static, imposing poses that were suited for a simple two piece cast. Every captain came with a cloak like this one, except this captain had little skulls embroidered into the fabric.
I decided to use my TMM Ultramarine technique to add a new spin on a classic miniature. However, I decided to keep more modern techniques, like weathering, non metallic metals and object source lighting to a minimum. This preserves a sense of historical place whilst affording me an opportunity to paint in a style I have not done in years. I have taken a photographs before and after I glued the cape on to show how de-saturated the colour scheme the miniature had. This was a conscious desicion designed to add more visual impact to the strange reddish purple of the cloak (if anyone can tell me what mid tone I used for the cloak gets to join my gang - answers on facebook if you want to cheat).
I finished the miniature with a flourish of marbling for the Captain's 'U' symbol on his left pauldron. I'm delighted to have finally painted this miniature and it is certainly worthy enough join the halls of my Citadel Legends.
Friday, 5 August 2011
12:14
Unknown
It's that time of year again. Warseer have today put up their sign up sheet for their yearly tale of 40K painters. Instead of being a spectator, I decided to put myself forward to see if I had what it took to complete it.
To give myself a realistic chance of completing at least 10% of my chosen points value (1,500 pts) per month, I have chosen to repaint my very first army: The Ultramarines. Following on from my TMM Ultramrine experiment I will be repainting my 90's marine army in a similar vein. I have devised a quicker technique that offers very pleasing results (see test miniature below).
Inspired by the sign up thread, I've added some colour to my first assembled squad. My aim is to create an army inspired by the Utramarine army shown in their first codex. I have been feverishly stripping my old models, repairing the bizarre conversions I inflicted upon them, and trying to figure out which ones are lead, and which ones are white metal.
If you would like to participate please sign up here on Warseer's Tale of 40K painters thread. And good luck for all entering this year!
LilLoser
Monday, 11 July 2011
10:18
Unknown
STAGE 1, Midtone.
· Basecoat Black, Dust White.
· Mix VMC Prussian Blue (Regal Blue) with VMC Oliy Steel
(Boltgun metal). 60:40 mix (use The old Citadel Metallic paint as a reference).
(Boltgun metal). 60:40 mix (use The old Citadel Metallic paint as a reference).
Notes:
DO NOT USE WET PALLETTE. The silver pigment in the Oily
Steel does not disburse evenly. Make sure that the blue has a nice
robust, even colour to it. (Save yourself a lot of pain and buy
VMC model air equivalent; the silver pigment is ground more
finely and you will not get that horrible 'glitter' effect when mixing the paint).
Steel does not disburse evenly. Make sure that the blue has a nice
robust, even colour to it. (Save yourself a lot of pain and buy
VMC model air equivalent; the silver pigment is ground more
finely and you will not get that horrible 'glitter' effect when mixing the paint).
STAGE 2: Highlights and shading
· Highlight the above mix with Oily Steel.
· Add Mithril silver for extreme highlight.
· Mix Prussian Blue and Black ink 25/40:75:60 mix
and apply shadow NMM style.
and apply shadow NMM style.
Notes:
When you add more Oily steel to the mixture for highlight,
it will look like you are actually darkening the armour.
This is an illusion. The armour will appear more metallic and brighter when it has dried.
it will look like you are actually darkening the armour.
This is an illusion. The armour will appear more metallic and brighter when it has dried.
Don’t worry of the mirthril silver is a little extreme at this stage.
It can be ‘stained’ later with successive washes of blue/black and green.
It can be ‘stained’ later with successive washes of blue/black and green.
Be mindful when applying shadow. Use venithal lighting.
Pick a light source, and paint throughout the model.
Pick a light source, and paint throughout the model.
STAGE 3: Washes and further highlighting / shading.
· Wash the entire armour with Thakka Green.
· Reapply Prussian blue, Oily steel and Mithril silver mix.
Work up the edges of the armour and highlights.
Work up the edges of the armour and highlights.
· Continue to shade armour with Prussian Blue and Black ink wash.
· Black line armour plates with Prussian Blue and
Black ink wash (more black for a stronger shadow).
Black ink wash (more black for a stronger shadow).
NOTES:
The Green wash should make the armour pop. At this point
the overall look should be taking shape.
the overall look should be taking shape.
STAGE 4 Re-applying highlights.
· Highlight armour plates with Prussian blue, Oily Steel, and Mithril silver (35:35:20). Work up to pure Mithril Silver edges.
· Shade with Black and Asruman wash. Remember think about your light sourcing, and how the shadows work on the model.
NOTES:
Don’t worry if the silver is a little light. Subsequent washes will bring the harshness of the highlight down.
STAGE 5 Final Highlight.
· Highlight armour with pure Mirthril Silver.
· Shade with nearly pure black wash (only wash in recesses; you're black lining with black ink/wash)
LilLoser
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